Lay backing under the frame. Cut backing slightly wider than the frame 1,5 cm all around. Using the frame as your gauge, your backing will fit the frame correctly each time.
Turn the frame upside down. Peel the paper from the backing. Place the backing on the frame. Be sure to allow backing to extend past the sides and bottom of the frame. Fold the excess backing over the front edge of the frame.
Attach the frame to the machine arms just as you would one of your hoops. The opening of the frame (with the backing attached) should be coming toward you. Trace your design for proper location. Be sure to leave enough room that the pressure foot does not pinch the garment on the inner edge of the frame.
Remove the frame from the machine. Place item to be sewn on the exposed backing. Smooth fabric on the adhesive backing. Place frame on the machine and embroider.
Tear sewn items from the backing. This sometimes requires both hands. Patch the hole with another piece f backing and continue.
Embroidery frames large are easy to use and attach to your deep arm.
Hooping in 5 seconds.
Relief from carpel tunnel
Great for multi head operations
The pocket must be a minimum of 13 cm wide at the opening (using the 5 cm x 10 cm hoop.) This allows the bobbin case to fit inside the pocket and still have room to travel back and forth.
When embroidering down a long sleeve lined jacket, black office binder clips or clam clips may be used on the side of the frame to secure the outer garment and the lining together. This also helps when your fabric is water-resistant or you have a large bag.
When sewing a rigid brief case or computer case and you need to get down toward the bottom, use a golf ball in the corners to help hold the bag open for easier stiching.
Fast Frames add-on frames will work with many different machines, when you upgrade or change machines, often all you need to get up and going again is a new exchange arm. – cleverly thought out